Family Landscaping & Lawncare Inc

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2007 Western Region Winner of the Massachusetts Flower Growers Association
Family Landscaping and Lawn Care provides personal and top quality landscaping and lawn care services. For projects big or small, we deliver professional and reliable service you can depend on.

The Basic Lawn Fertilization Program is designed to give your lawn a controlled feeding of nutrients throughout the growing season, while at the same time eliminating the weeds and insect pests that can damage the turf. During the season a trained technician will visit your home four times to apply the appropriate materials. They will assess the lawns health at those visits and make recommendations as needed so that your grass is kept in the optimum condition. Important advice and information about your lawn or landscape is only a phone call away to those participating in the Basic Program. The program consists of these elements:

High quality slow release nitrogen is applied to ensure continual growth and good color. Differing amounts of phosphorous and potash are included in the mixture depending on the need, time of year and weather conditions.

This long lasting pre-emergent product is applied in early spring to stop the sprouting of crabgrass and annual weeds that can grow more aggressively than your grasses and interfere with their survival.
Broadleaf Weed Control
The only liquid product applied in the program, this is sprayed on weeds such as dandelion and clover where it is taken in by the plant and translocates to the root destroying the whole plant. In many cases it is applied with a hand sprayer to minimize the chemicals applied to the lawn.
Surface Insect Control
This product is applied in early summer to knock down the population of surface feeding insects such as chinch bugs. It has a short active release time and is not meant to kill all insects in the lawn but to significantly reduce their population so there will be no turf damage. It is intended for surface insects and will not affect grubs below the surface of the grass.
PH Soil Test
A simple soil test is taken from samples around the yard in mid summer to determine the PH level of the soil. Having the correct PH level is one of the most important elements in growing healthy turf. Lime is often needed to increase the PH level up to 6.2 which is the optimum for growing grass.

Do I need lime?
The only way to tell for certain is with a PH soil test which measures the soil acidity level. Grasses grow best at a PH level of 6.2. Lime neutralizes acid soil and raises the PH level. Plentiful rains in Massachusetts tend to leach lime out quickly. As a consequence, our soils are naturally acid and need lime.

Often it happens that the turf in your yard has been damaged and needs to be repaired. There are several different methods to accomplish this that will depend on the specific conditions in the yard. Anytime seeding is done, the most important item is having good, quality fresh seed.

When planting, we always use a seed mixture that will have more than one grass type with different varieties from each of the types. The mixture would have only perennial varieties in it that come back year after year as opposed to the cheaper annual varieties that die with the winters cold. If only one type of grass was planted, it is possible that a disease might erupt that is specific to that type and would wipe out the entire lawn. The seed manufacturers are constantly improving their products. Some of the newer products are endophyte enhanced, so that insects will die from feeding on them. In addition, they try to make the varieties resistant to some of the damaging turf funguses.

The usual reason that a seeding fails is that is not watered properly. A new seed bed needs to be kept constantly moist during the germination process which can take three or four weeks. If the soil is allowed to dry out completely even once during that time some of the seed will be lost. Light frequent watering is the key to successful germination. A typical seed mixture may have these types in it.

one of the most popular of lawn grasses and what most sod is composed of. The grass increases by underground runners as opposed to most other clump-forming grasses that can help to fill in bare areas quicker.

The rye grass will germinate much quicker than the bluegrasses and will give good coverage to the lawn, keeping out weeds until the other grasses germinate.

A renovation is indicated when there are less than 50 % good grasses left in a lawn. In this case the lawn is stripped. Any existing vegetation is removed from the area and disposed of. At that point depending on conditions new loam may be spread before seeding or if the area has good soil and a flat surface it may be simply overseeded.

This is process that uses a machine to mechanically inject seed into the ground. It can also be called slit seeding, aero seeding or slice seeding. During this process the machine cuts a groove into the soil and automatically drops seed into this shallow trench. In this way, there is good soil seed contact which is essential to proper germination. One of the advantages with this method is that it can be used on existing turf which is thin to help thicken it without damaging the existing grasses.

This is used whenever the existing site conditions are deficient. If the ground is uneven, the grass too clumpy, or the existing soil too sandy, then adding a layer of loam to the surface is the proper treatment. The loam is always screened, so it is free of rocks and roots.

This method is used when there are smaller areas that need to filled in. The screened loam is applied directly to the lawn surface in the bare areas and then seed is raked into the surface of the loam.

This is laying out pre-grown turf in sections across bare soil. It has the advantage of needing less water to start it and less intensive time requirements needed in getting it established. There is, of course, added cost, since it has been grown at the sod farm in advance.

Any landscape beds in your yard that border on lawn area will be affected by grass creeping in. It is natural for grass to spread, and a mulched shrub bed provides a perfect growing medium for it. Most people do not have the time to tend to this and their beds become clogged and ugly from the grass and weeds growing there. To prevent this creep and to define a clean edge to the beds, landscape edging can be installed. There are several options.

This is the most common and least expensive. It is a plastic band that is trenched into the soil around the bed and then spiked into place so it cannot come up again. When it is installed properly all that is seen is a round tube on the shaped into curves which makes a desirable look for all home landscapes.

Wood timbers come in a 6 x 6 size or 4 x 4 size depending on the site and needs. They are dug into the ground, leveled and spiked with metal bars to keep them in place. They can make an attractive raised physical barrier along a shrub bed. The only disadvantage to them is that they must border a straight bed.

Colored concrete stone in a 5quadrilateral shape. The sides have the same length while the top is longer than the bottom. Due to this feature they can be placed side by side to make either a curve or a straight line.

As a Certified Master Gardener, Id like to put my knowledge and expertise to work in your yard. Ill work closely with you to create a beautiful landscape youll be proud of. Your complete satisfaction is my goal.

At Family Landscaping & Lawn care our goal is to make a landscape for you that uniquely fits your family and your needs. To that end, each design is a special plan different from any other. We consult with you at your home to determine the use of the landscaped area and any preferences in plant material. The design may incorporate patio and walkway areas, water features, or raised beds. We can blend shrubs with perennials to help give more color interest, and we can design for the homeowner in mind who has no green thumb and wants low maintenance and durability. Whether it is a front entrance way or an estate, we will give you the look that suits your family.

Once the needs have been assessed and the area measured, the work is taken back to the computer to generate a scale drawing of the area to be landscaped. Hardscapes are put in and plants and trees are plugged in as the beds are designed. This work is brought back to you so that revisions can be made to get your look just right. We look together at pictures of the various plants so you are familiar with what will be in your yard. Only when you are satisfied with the drawing do we move on to the final construction phase.

The landscape around your house should be a thing of beauty that will be a pleasure for you to enjoy in your day-to-day lives and which will also increase the value of your home. Once a design has been approved, then planting can begin. We have a thorough knowledge of the trees, shrubs and perennials that can be grown in this area, and that gives a wide variety to choose from for your landscape.

The plants are hand chosen from various local wholesale nurseries to ensure quality and to make sure they are disease-free. All shrubs and trees are guaranteed to live for a year or will be replaced. Often old shrubs need to be removed first before a planting can begin. We have the capability of removing the old materialstumps and alland properly dispose of them.

At Family Landscaping & Lawn Care we know that having a layer of organic material in your shrub beds or around trees can be extremely beneficial. The mulch layer aids in keeping down weeds, protects the plants from damage from lawnmowers or weed whackers and helps to keep moisture in the soil. It is a good idea to refresh this yearly with an additional inch of new material on the surface. Over time the natural mulches will break down and provide new soil to the plants. Mulch varieties are increasing. Here is what is available at the moment.

In todays landscapes the hardscapes such as patios and walkways are becoming more and more common. Your home should reflect your own style and taste and the hardscapes you incorporate into your yard can be an extension of that style in outdoor rooms. Many people are opting to put in a patio in their new constructions rather than a deck due to its durability and attractiveness. All the patios and walkways are constructed in the same manner and the most important aspect is the foundation. When the foundation is constructed properly the patio will remain level and tight for years to come. It needs to have a deep compacted gravel base with mason sand on top onto which the pavers are laid. This will aid in draining water away from the patio area and prevents the freezing and thawing in winter that would destroy the integrity of the structure.

The pavers themselves are a dyed concrete product. They come in a staggering number of colors and shapes depending on your preference. They have the advantage over a concrete slab in that they will never crack. If an area has to be dug up, the pavers can be lifted and then put back into place. They are also cooler in hot summer temperatures and their surface does not grow algae and become slippery like natural brick can. They fit tightly together with just room enough for some sand to be brushed between them. This prevents arrant weeds from beginning in the spaces between the pavers which can be a nuisance. The pavers can be cut easily to form any shape or design. The outside edges of the patio or walkway are contained with a hidden L-shaped rigid plastic edging that spikes into the ground to prevent any lateral movement of the pavers.

In many yards with slopes, a retaining wall is a must to give as much usability as possible to the landscape. A terraced area gives a flat surface for entertaining or play that would be a hazard on a slope. Stone added into the landscape adds richness to a planting and value to the home. Today there are many options for constructing a beautiful retaining wall.

Concrete Paving Stones
Even though they are made of concrete, there is no concrete look. They are a dyed product so there are several colors to choose from and they have textured fronts which make an appealing wall. Some of these segmented have a step back feature which means they lean into the hill they are against and we can easily incorporate stairs into them to make transitions between levels in a yard easier.

Goshen stone quarried in this area is a natural flat stone. It comes in different thicknesses and has a gray look with flecks of iron ore in it which can give it a rusty look in places. Due to its flatness, it can be easily stacked and trimmed to make an beautiful wall for retaining a hill or for free standing uses.

Wood pressure treated 6 x 6 timbers can be stacked together to make a retaining wall. The bottom layer is spiked into he ground and the upper layers are attached to each other. This works only where a straight section of wall is needed.

In todays hectic world many people are looking to their yards for a restful retreat from the hectic pace they lead all week. The sound of water moving and falling helps shut out the sounds of the outside world and can homeowners tranquility and quiet in their own private sanctuary. A pond and/or waterfall can be an ideal addition to your yard. Filled with fish and water plants, it gives a wonderful added dimension to any landscape. The ponds can be equipped with automatic pond skimmers that will take any material falling on the surface and whisk it into a hidden filter.

A pond, even a small one, is not for everyone. They do require some maintenance in replacing water and cleaning the filter. But the rewards as you relax in your yard and enjoy the sounds are tremendous. They are constructed with EPDM rubber liners underneath that are then covered with natural stones to disguise it. The result is a pond that looks real and natural as if it had been there forever.

Even if you are not ready for a full pond yet you can have the sound of moving water in your landscape with a small water feature on your patio or next to it that can block the sounds of the world and help you to relax.

What is the proper mowing height?
Lowering the mower blade makes a lawn less tolerant of environmental stresses. Maintain your lawn at the highest cutting height that is acceptable for its intended use. A higher level shades grass roots during hot weather and provides more leaf surface for photosynthesis, 2-1/2 to 3 inches is best. Make sure that the mower blade is sharp before cutting or you may shred the grass tips and leave them open to disease.
How often should I mow?
This is dependent on the time of year, amount of water, fertilizer, etc. However, do not cut off more than 1/3 of the grass height at each mowing. For example, if you maintain the lawn at a 3 height then it should not be allowed to grow more than 5 before it is cut. Cutting a lawn short after growing it long can result in the lawn going into shock and being more susceptible to disease.
How much water does my lawn need?
Lawns vary in their type of grasses, soil, and depth of rooting. These factors influence water needs. The best guide to watering is personal observation of soil and grass conditions. Water the lawn just before the grass wilts. Wilting is imminent when footprints remain on the lawn for several minutes after walking on it. Or, use a soil probe to check for evidence of dryness. Usually 1 of water will wet the ground to a depth of 4-6. Water slowly and deeply. Light frequent watering promotes shallow root systems which stress the grass in hot weather. People with sprinkler systems usually water too much and can promote fungal infections.
What is the best time of day for watering?
Wet grass and cool night temperatures are often a combination that leads to disease activity. However, research has shown that it is the duration of leaf wetness that has a greater effect on disease activity and not simply night watering per se, since grass is often wet at night from dew. It follows then that watering in the early morning or late evening might increase the duration of leaf wetness and therefore increase disease. Late morning to late afternoon is the best time and night watering should be feasible unless fungal activity is present.
Should I leave my clippings down or pick them up?
Todays mulching mowers will grind lawn clippings up to the point where they are not noticeable. These clipping are an ideal added source of food for the grass plants. However, if when you are finished mowing, there are noticeable clumps of grass on the lawn then they should be picked up. Any clumps left will smother and kill the good grass underneath.

How do I know if I have grubs?
Although there are many kinds of grubs, most lawn grubs are the larval stage of the Japanese beetle. They feed in May and June and again in August to October on grass roots. The affected area will turn brown and have no root connection. It can usually be rolled up like a carpet. A healthy lawn can sustain a small population of grubs. But when that population reaches 5-10 per square foot it must be treated or damage will result.
What do I do about moles?
Moles are a small mouse sized mammals that burrow in the lawn leaving raised tunnels throughout. They are carnivorous and feed on grubs, earthworms, and other beetles in the soil. The tunnels are their searching pattern looking for food. Just because you have moles does not mean that you have grubs. There are many home-based myths that claim they will rid your yard of moles (chewing gum, human hair, pinwheels etc). There are also many commercial products (poisons, baits, gasses and repellents) that will claim the same thing. Most will not work. Moles often live in woods and come out into your lawn to forage. They are very territorial and even though you see many tunnels there may be only one or two moles. The best cure is to trap them but you must be vigilant. You must stomp down all the tunnels and wait for the first to pop back up. That will be their active home based tunnel. Put the trap there and wait a day or two. If you have not caught them in that time move it to another spot.
I have a light green fast growing grass in the lawn, what is it?
That is nutsedge. It is not really a grass but is in the sedge family. It is a difficult problem to get rid of because it can spread from seed, underground runners or from small nutlets. Even though it pulls out easily, that will not get rid of it. There are chemicals that can control it, but they take time over a period of years to completely eliminate it from your landscape.
I have white fuzz on my Hemlocks, what is it?
A small insect called the Wooly Adelgid is attacking many Hemlocks in the Northeast. If you look closely at the needles of your Hemlocks you will see the white material on them. The insect sucks the juices out of the plant and because of the huge numbers involved in time will kill the plant. If you have small plants a chemical spraying or soil drench annually will work to control them. Larger plants may be more difficult to save. It is better not to plant new Hemlocks but to look at some other alternatives.

Richard MacGovern established Family Landscaping & Lawn Care Inc in 1990. He is the owner/operator and has extensive experience in the field taking care of peoples lawn and landscape needs. A graduate of the University of Massachusetts with a Masters Degree, he is a certified Master Gardener from the Massachusetts Extension Service. He is a member of the Massachusetts Horticultural Society, has a Commercial Massachusetts Pesticide license and an Advanced Level Education Certificate in paver and segmented wall installation.

Originally taught by his grandfather, he has been gardening his whole life, experimenting with color and design in his own yard and is still learning.